7 DAYS IN EGYPT
It was my
childhood dream to visit the ancient Egyptian sites and see the 3,000- to
5,000-year-old edifices that have been surrounded by so much mystique and
mystery. Now, with our kids away at school, my husband and I decided to embark
on one of our most adventurous and mind-boggling trips.
You may
rightfully ask, Why didn’t you go with your kids? Well, most kids prefer
fun activities on vacation rather than wandering around in the hot desert
visiting ancient sites and museums. So why do it?
Since we
were already in Europe, we chose to fly to Cairo in early March during Ramadan,
hoping the weather wouldn’t be too hot and that there would be fewer tourists.
Our plan worked.
Arrival
in Cairo
We arrived
in Cairo around 7 PM. Buying a visa at the airport is easy—it costs $25 per
person, so we didn’t bother doing it online in advance. We had a reservation at
a cheap Giza Inn, located close to the pyramids, and arranged for their hotel
pickup service.
There are
three main transportation options in Cairo: private car, taxi, or Uber. Uber is
by far the cheapest and eliminates the hassle of negotiating prices with taxi
drivers.
Our driver was
late, but after a short wait, he arrived, and all was well.
The ride
took about an hour due to traffic, giving us our first taste of Cairo’s city
life. While some roads have lanes, cars use them more as guidelines. At
intersections, the most aggressive driver goes first. To a Westerner, this
might seem chaotic—constant honking, yelling, and weaving through traffic. I
would not recommend driving on your own.
Our driver
was super nice. He bought us water and Twinkies from a roadside market and
chatted with us all the way to the inn. This ride cost about double of an Uber
ride.
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| The view from the rooftop bar in a Giza Inn |
Cairo is a
very busy city, with buildings stacked closely together. Beautifully maintained
government and religious buildings stand alongside dilapidated apartments. The
sand and wind take their toll. Giza, however, felt even more neglected. But
witnessing camels escaping down the road and tuk-tuks weaving through traffic
was a sight to behold.
Our inn
looked decent from the outside, but the room was very unclean—stains on the
pillows and bedsheets. I had to put my t-shirt over my pillow as a cover. But
for the super cheap price, we couldn’t complain too much, and the view of the
three pyramids was amazing.
The rooftop
restaurant service turned out to be a scam. Whenever we ordered food, an errand
boy would run to a nearby vendor and bring it back at a heavily marked-up
price. The owner also tried to sell us various tours, but by then, we were more
cautious and told him we’d think about it.
That night,
we didn’t sleep at all. Giza is a city that doesn’t rest. Cars honked and
people yelled throughout the night. I’m not sure if it was because of Ramadan
or if this is normal in Egypt, but the prayer calls from the minarets on
loudspeakers started at 5 AM, followed by others throughout the day. Bring
earplugs.
Exploring
the Pyramids (Sort Of)
The next
morning, we walked to the pyramids. We were warned it might be dangerous, and I
won’t lie—the street was a bit intimidating. Trash piled up in big heaps, stray
dogs roamed in packs, and cars, camels, and horses moved in all directions with
no apparent traffic rules. There were no crosswalks or traffic lights, but we
stayed alert and had no issues.
As we neared
the pyramids, we realized the fence was designed to prevent people from getting
a free look. We wandered down a few side streets, hoping for a better view.
Since we planned to return to Cairo later in the trip to properly visit the
pyramids, we just wanted a quick glimpse before heading to the airport for our
flight to Aswan. Several men approached us in the side streets, but they
weren’t aggressive. I was more concerned about the large packs of stray dogs.
Heading
Back to the Airport
We decided
to take an Uber instead of the inn’s private car. Just a tip—there’s another
airport in Cairo called Sphinx Airport, so make sure you double-check your
destination.
Cairo
Airport is very clean and efficient. Despite several security checkpoints, we
made it to our gate in about 20 minutes. The airport prices are high; we paid
$6 for a Spanish coffee.
There is no
Uber in Aswan, so we had to rely on taxis. We managed to negotiate a price of
$25 for a 30-minute ride to our hotel, but compared to the $7 we paid for a
40-minute ride in Cairo, this felt steep. However, the drivers seemed to work
together and were firm on the price, so we had no choice but to pay.
The
magical Nile City, Aswan
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| Felucca cruise on the Nile in Aswan |
Aswan is a beautiful and peaceful city by the Nile. We booked two nights at the Pyramisa Island Hotel, which required a short shuttle boat ride to reach the island. Since we had already decided to skip a full Nile cruise, this quick 10-minute boat ride gave us a taste of the river’s beauty and rich history. Traditional Egyptian sailing boats called Feluccas cruised alongside us, and with a few ancient ruins dotting the riverbanks, the whole experience felt magical.
After
checking in, we headed straight to the pool, where we sipped cocktails served
by the warm and welcoming Nubian Egyptians. I received flowers, endless
compliments, and some of the best service I’ve ever had. The mojitos were
outstanding, though I wish we had remembered to ask for no ice.
During
Ramadan, most restaurants are closed, and I didn’t see a single
supermarket—only small roadside markets—so having buffet-style breakfast and
dinner included with our room was incredibly convenient.
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| Sunset from the dinner patio in Aswan |
Sunset over
the Nile during dinner are breathtaking, especially when the call to prayer
echoes through the air, adding an exotic and serene touch to the atmosphere.
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| Sunrise over the Nile from our hotel balcony in Aswan |
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| Ramses II (or Ramesses) and Queen Nefertari in Abu Simbel |
The next
morning, we had arranged for a private driver for about $100 to take us to Abu
Simbel, home to the incredible ancient temples of Ramses II and Nefertari. This
is a must-see destination.
The car ride
took about three and a half hours, including a few breaks. One stop was at a
roadside café and shop packed with tourists. Restroom are available for a small
fee.
Since Sudan
is relatively close, we also passed through several checkpoints, but our driver
handled all the paperwork effortlessly.
The
landscape along the way was mostly flat desert, but as we neared Abu Simbel,
the horizon transformed into giant pyramid-shaped mountains—perhaps the
inspiration for the Pyramids of Giza.
At Abu
Simbel, our driver waited for us at a café while we explored. We had two hours,
which was just enough time. I won’t spoil the feeling of walking around the
mountain and seeing the temples for the first time—you have to experience it
yourself. No picture or video can do it justice. We spent every moment admiring
the breathtaking architecture, intricate statues, and painted reliefs—or just
watching foreign influencers staging elaborate photoshoots.
A word of
caution: any local who approaches you to show you something, take your photo,
or offer assistance—even if they appear to work there or are dressed as
security—will expect a tip.
After our
visit, we took the shuttle boat back to the hotel. We spent another relaxing
evening by the pool before enjoying dinner on the patio, watching the sunset
over the Nile before walking the hotel grounds.
The Road
to Luxor
The next morning, we hired another private driver to take us to Luxor, with stops at Kom Ombo and Edfu temples. There are two routes to Luxor: the freeway, which is faster and smoother but mostly just desert, and the village route, which is slower but offers plenty to see. I only took one photo during this drive because I find it disrespectful to photograph locals going about their daily lives for social media. But I’ll admit, I couldn’t resist snapping one of a man riding a donkey—it was just too perfect.
I won’t
spend pages describing the temples because you can look them up, but if you’re
an ancient Egypt nerd like me, standing before these towering facades and
intricate pillars will leave you in awe. Kom Ombo is like a smaller version of
Karnak (which we hadn’t visited yet), while Edfu has an entrance so detailed
and massive that we just stood there, speechless.
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| Edfu Temple |
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| Edfu Temple |
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| Kom Ombo Temple |
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| Kom Ombu Temple |
Vendors are
aggressive at both sites. The only way we got some peace was when I firmly said
we just wanted to walk and enjoy our time. That worked for me, but no amount of
“no” from my husband deterred them—they just wouldn’t give up.
There are
coffee shops with restrooms at these sites but be prepared to pay 10–20
Egyptian pounds for a tiny piece of toilet paper. Keep cash on you.
Before
reaching Luxor there was another checkpoint where our drivers asked us to wait
at the coffee shop. While the people were very nice, this place was a set up
and very expensive and I felt they took advantage of us.
At the final
part of our seven hour trip, we drove through busy villages and endless green
farmlands growing sugarcane, alfalfa, wheat, banana trees, dates, and mangoes.
We finally
arrived at Steigenberger Resort on Luxor’s east bank. Once again, we had a
Nile-view room, with stunning sunsets over the Valley of the Kings. Our stay
included a buffet-style breakfast and dinner, which was a stress-free and
affordable option.
Instead of
lounging by the crowded pool with other tourists, we walked to a nearby
restaurant. Since it was still Ramadan, locals didn’t start eating until after
6 PM, so we had the place to ourselves. The staff was welcoming and served us
everything on the menu. The fresh-squeezed juices yet again were incredible—I
highly recommend trying the mixed juice or mango juice. The owner gave us a
tour and explained their evening programs.
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| Hookah pipe in a Bedouin style tent |
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| Luxor |
After a
satisfying meal, we returned to the hotel for drinks by the Nile, then visited
their Bedouin tent to smoke a hookah pipe. Many Westerners hesitate to try this
experience, but I highly recommend it. We aren’t smokers, yet we spent hours
lounging like Aladdin and Jasmine, drinking gin and tonics, smoking apple- and
cherry-flavored hookah, and listening to live Egyptian music. The owner even
shared his life story and how he built his business.
This was an
experience not to be missed—one hookah was only $5, and we went through two in
a couple of hours.
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| Hot Air Balloon and The Valley of the Kings |
Our next day
started early, with temperatures expected to hit 90°F in early March and a
packed itinerary ahead. From our balcony, we admired the breathtaking sight of
dozens of hot air balloons drifting over the Nile and the desert near the
Valley of the Kings in the sunrise.
Shortly
after, our private driver arrived at the hotel to pick us up for the day’s
excursions. The cost? A mere $24—practically a steal.
Originally,
we had planned to visit the Valley of the Kings, Hathor’s Temple, Luxor Temple,
Karnak, and Ramses Temple. However, we ended up cutting our itinerary short.
Let me walk you through the sites we did see.
Valley of
the Kings
This is one
of Egypt’s most famous tourist destinations, and it certainly felt that way. A
standard ticket grants access to three tombs, but the more elaborate ones
require additional fees. Our driver advised against paying extra, saying,
"If you’ve seen one tomb, you’ve seen them all." Given the crowds and
the intense heat, we took his advice.
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| The Valley of the Kings |
A word of advice: do your research before visiting the Valley of the Kings. The ticket office offers no guidance—you must know exactly which tombs you want to see, where are they located, and how many tickets you need.
By the time
we rode the transport cart back to the parking lot, I was relieved. I can’t
even imagine enduring this place in the peak of summer.
Adjusting
Our Plans
Back in the
air-conditioned car, we reassessed our schedule. Having already explored Kom
Ombo and Edfu, we decided to skip Luxor Temple and the Temple of Ramses II, as
they were less well-preserved versions of sites we had already seen. Instead,
we headed straight for Hathor’s Temple.
Hathor’s
Temple
There isn’t
much to see here beyond the stunning façade and a long staircase leading into
the temple, but what a sight it was! As I climbed, I couldn’t help but imagine
the ancient Egyptians who once ascended these very steps, making their way
toward the priests and pharaohs. By the time they reached the temple’s inner
sanctum, it’s no wonder they viewed these rulers as divine. (And for the
record, I still refuse to believe humans built these structures unaided.)
The
Alabaster Factory
At our
driver’s suggestion, we stopped at an alabaster factory, where we could also
use the restroom for free. The owner gave a fascinating demonstration on
traditional alabaster carving, but we knew it was a well-rehearsed sales pitch
for tourists. The real question was: how much would this little detour cost us?
We quickly
learned that they expected us to spend a small fortune. After some intense
haggling, we managed to negotiate the price down to a third of the original
asking amount. Even then, the items weren’t exactly cheap.
Karnak:
The Grand Finale
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| Karnak |
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| Karnak |
By this
point, the only site left on our must-see list was Karnak. After five days of
exploring Egypt’s most incredible ancient landmarks, I wasn’t sure anything
could still amaze me. But Karnak? Karnak blew our minds.
We spent a
solid two to three hours simply absorbing its grandeur. Towering 70-foot
columns, intricately carved reliefs and hieroglyphs, massive statues, sphinxes,
chambers, and monumental gates—this place had it all. I could easily write an
entire blog post dedicated to Karnak alone, but I don’t want to spoil it for
you. Just know that it is not to be missed.
Despite the
crowds of tourists and influencers striking dramatic poses for their photo
shoots, the sheer scale of Karnak made it easy to slip away into smaller
chambers and side corridors, creating an intimate and personal experience.
One final
tip: always keep a steady supply of Egyptian pounds on hand. Many of the locals
inside these historical sites appear to be staff members offering assistance,
but their help is never free.
Back in the Hotel
After
Karnak, we returned to the hotel. By that point, we were practically living on
activated charcoal pills. Remember when I said not to order drinks with ice?
Well, we didn’t follow our own advice. If you plan to travel here, I’d
recommend calculating about four pills per person per day when buying activated
charcoal.
That night,
our buffet dinner came with an unexpected twist. A large group of young Italian
men had just arrived at the hotel, and they tore through the buffet like a
swarm of locusts. The rest of the guests had to fight for every bite, as the
kitchen struggled to replenish the trays fast enough. Fortunately, we had time.
These buffets typically cost around $20 per person, while breakfast was $12.
Traveling
back to Cairo
Luxor
doesn’t offer Uber services, so the day before, we arranged a fixed-rate deal
with our private driver to take us to the airport. He was scheduled to pick us
up at 6 a.m., and we were slightly anxious about whether he would show up—but
he did.
After
another short flight to Cairo, we took an Uber to Triumph Hotel, chosen for its
proximity to the airport. Our flight home was at 4:30 a.m., so we wanted to
stay as close as possible.
It was too
early to check in, but the hotel reception kindly allowed us to store our
carry-on bags (that’s all we traveled with), so we grabbed only our backpacks
and took another Uber straight to the Egyptian Museum.
Once again,
the traffic was pure chaos, but our driver was an aggressive navigator—exactly
what was needed in these conditions. Those who are nervous passengers might
find the experience a little too thrilling.
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| Egyptian Museum Cairo |
Egyptian Museum
All tickets
in Egypt must be purchased with a Visa card; they no longer accept cash. We
bought ours and then, like any true fan of The Mummy movies, took the
obligatory photos on the museum steps.
Inside, we
took our time, examining each sarcophagus carefully. I got very excited about
Imhotep’s sarcophagus (The Mummy reference) Then I had what could only
be described as a “Karen moment.” Two French men in their fifties kept rubbing
their hands along the hieroglyphs carved into the ancient stone slabs. I told
them to stop. This led to a brief exchange of words, but I stand by my
decision—I’d do it again.
The
Tutankhamun exhibition felt incomplete, as if many artifacts were missing. I
suspect Cairo loans out its treasures to exhibitions in other countries, as I
distinctly remember seeing a far more extensive collection at a display in Los
Angeles. Nevertheless, the museum is a must-see. The stories told on the walls,
the sheer weight of history, the artifacts—it was overwhelming in the best way.
After
leaving the museum, we faced our longest Uber wait of the trip. Usually,
drivers arrived in 4–8 minutes, but this time, we waited for half an hour.
Something was off with the Uber app—it kept giving us incorrect updates.
Meanwhile, aggressive taxi drivers tried to convince us to take their rides,
but we stood our ground and waited.
Lost in
Cairo
We attempted
to stop at a bakery on the way back to the hotel, as at this point, all I
wanted was bread and my activated charcoal pills. Unfortunately, we only found
sweet shops, and after aimlessly wandering through random streets in Cairo, we
eventually gave up.
Back at the
hotel, we realized they didn’t serve alcohol. Determined, we walked to a nearby
market—only to find that they didn’t sell any either. Getting there was an
adventure in itself, though. We had to dash across six lanes of traffic in the
dark, with no crosswalk in sight.
For dinner,
we ordered from the à la carte menu at the hotel restaurant. It turned out to
be the best and most affordable meal of our entire trip. We also indulged in a
mango cake that resembled a tres leches cake from South America. It was
incredible. We paid for it later, but sometimes, you just have to live in the
moment.
Our Final Day: The Giza Pyramids
The grand
finale of our trip was the Giza pyramids. We arrived at 8 a.m. to buy tickets,
and this was the only place where we wished we had purchased them online. The
line wasn’t long, but the ticket office opened late, and street hustlers were
buying tickets on behalf of tourists who didn’t have Visa cards. The ticket
agent seemed to prioritize them over those of us waiting in line, which was
frustrating.
But once
inside, the irritation melted away. I could write an entire essay about the
sheer awe these pyramids inspired—but words won’t do them justice. You have to
see them for yourself.
It was a
scorching day with little shade. Tourists in tank tops and sundresses were
already burning, their skin turning a deep shade of lobster red. Lightweight,
breathable clothing is essential in Egypt—not just as a sign of respect for
local culture but also for your own protection. The desert sun is unforgiving.
We walked
most of the way because I refused to rent a horse after seeing overweight
tourists riding small, exhausted horses struggling up the hills under the whip
of their handlers. It was heartbreaking.
The walk
wasn’t long, and we had all day to explore. With nothing else planned, we took
our time, savoring every moment. I had waited so long for this experience, and
since it was likely my first and last time here, I wanted to fully immerse
myself in it.
We opted not
to go inside the pyramids. After our experience at the Valley of the Kings, we
weren’t keen on being crammed into a narrow tunnel with a coughing crowd.
Instead, I watched a YouTube video about the interior. It was enough.
This
unplanned detour turned out to be the highlight of our trip. Our guide, a
friendly and humorous 19-year-old, made the experience even more enjoyable. The
camels were gentle and well-trained.
As we rode through the sandy slopes, the pyramids behind us, a line of tourists on camels stretching along the horizon, the moment felt surreal. My husband, wrapped in my white silk shawl we had overpaid for in Kom Ombo before mastering the art of negotiation, laughed as he took playful photos with our guide.I scratched my camel’s neck while soaking it all in. It was the perfect way to end our seven-day journey in Egypt—gently swaying on camelback, the vast desert unfolding around us, history pressing in from every direction.
A truly
magical moment. One we will never forget.
